DIOR AUTUMN-WINTER 2023-2024

The Dior haute couture stands as a testament to time, building its own narrative rhythm that echoes the excellence and precision it demands. It reflects an extraordinary temporal dance, integrating the past into each beat of the present, stimulating memory and imagination. In the Atelier, sketches transform into breathtaking dresses. Paper patterns are obsolete, as each design takes shape according to the contours of the body, enhancing its uniqueness.

Dior: Reaching for Perfection

Maria Grazia Chiuri, in her fall-winter 2023-2024 Dior haute couture collection, elevates sartorial archetypes – the tunic, the peplum, the cape, the stole – to a level of unparalleled perfection. Building on this, Chiuri’s interaction with artist Marta Roberti transcends conventional fashion norms, metamorphosing the runway into a dynamic art gallery.

Fueled by Roberti’s diligent study and masterful portrayal of goddess iconographies, Chiuri deftly infuses these divine forms into her couture. Consequently, she achieves a seamless fusion of the dress with the body, making fashion an extension of one’s self. Following this, the models make their grand entrance on the runway. With each step, they paint a vivid picture of a procession of ancient deities. Uniform silhouettes, paired with flat shoes, impeccably adhere to the color palette of white, beige, silver, and pale gold.

Moreover, jackets and coats exhibit an under-the-chest fold, echoing the timeless elegance of classic statues and columns. In this way, the collection manages to juxtapose contemporary fashion with elements of antiquity, creating a unique aesthetic that is both fresh and timeless.

Emblems of Elegance

Pearls, epitomizing purity, are integrated into numerous embroideries, shimmering alongside silver threads. The glittering textures of the 1960s resurface in long skirts and dresses. Wool and cashmere dominate the collection, with their use in a holy garment-like cape enhancing the outfits. Pleating, a highlight of the collection, adorns the sleeves of men’s jackets.

By celebrating goddess imagery and reinterpreting the symbols of antiquity, the show turns into a contemporary ritual. It underscores the power and vulnerability of femininity that forms the basis of our society, pointing towards a future nurtured by sensitivity and attention to detail.

Marta Roberti: Envisioning the Future

Marta Roberti, born in Brescia in 1977, curates an exclusive project for this Dior show. Her art, primarily consisting of drawings on paper, merges animals, goddesses, self-portraits, and untouched landscapes according to the space available. Roberti’s works revolve around the portrayal of goddesses whose worship thrived at civilization’s dawn, reflecting a time when women and feminine creativity were venerated as life’s origin.

A Tribute to Goddesses

Roberti’s installation for this Dior haute couture show serves as a reverential tribute to these goddesses, who were once considered the universe’s supreme forces. As such, these divine figures are frequently depicted alongside animals, such as leopards, bulls, and snakes. The inclusion of these animals plays a crucial role, underlining the symbiotic relationship between humans and the other inhabitants of Earth. Shifting the focus to Roberti’s unique vision, the goddess might appear with feathers and claws, thus embodying a fusion of animal and human characteristics. Subsequently, Roberti introduces her female characters, enveloped by lush nature, co-existing in perfect harmony with the animals surrounding them. Moreover, the artist further humanizes the divine feminine by incorporating self-portraits of herself executing yoga positions. It is through these elements that Roberti’s work aims to mend the present by resuscitating a forgotten past.

In conclusion, as curators Maria Alicata and Paola Ugolini emphasize, Roberti’s distinctive approach brings an added layer of depth to Dior’s fall-winter 2023-2024 collection.